Art of the Needle
Here is the one side of the corset in the golden/brown fashion fabric. I have basted it by hand to the coutil.Damn, I´ve just noticed I´ve used the center back piece from the other half..:P

Here is the one side of the corset in the golden/brown fashion fabric. I have basted it by hand to the coutil.

Damn, I´ve just noticed I´ve used the center back piece from the other half..:P

I have made the alterations I have mentioned in the previous post to the paper pattern.
But I have also nipped 12 cm of around the waist, made the seams between panel 3 and 4, 4 and 5 (counted from center front) flatter at the bust and lifted the point of the nipple 1 cm higher, so the corset will give the bust a nice push up effect.
I know my body quite well, so in stead of sewing it up in calico one more time, I did it in mink coloured coutil from Vena Cava Design.
After trying it on, I noticed one minor alteration was needed above the bust, otherwise it sits really nicely on me.

And here am I trying it on.

It is not taken in at the waist for now. When I work on a totally new pattern, I would like to have it fit properly to the body, before I take the waist in, or push up the bust.

Here Ginie is helping me in adjusting it..:P.

It sits more or less nicely but far from perfect. It gapes under the arm, it is to long (there is to much fabric) just under the shoulderblades from center back and out. It is to high in the waist, as I thought it would be, I will need to lower it by almost 2 cm, the curve is to large over the bust between panel 2 and 3 and I made the hip to small.

Back to the drawing board..;)

And here is the calico model. I like the look all those panels give it. It will look even greater in the golden fabric with a light blue ribbon sewn on top of every single seam. Then it really will show off all those lines.

I have transferred the pattern, cleaned it up a bit and added seem allowance.

I have transferred the pattern, cleaned it up a bit and added seem allowance.

This is how the pattern pieces look like, after I have draped them. At some point, I will add a hip piece.Next thing is, to transfer to paper and sew it up in calico, and afterwards try it on.I have an inkling that the corset, might be to short, since I am longer in the body than the manequin.And I am hoping, that the model (having my measurements) is also longer of body.

This is how the pattern pieces look like, after I have draped them. At some point, I will add a hip piece.
Next thing is, to transfer to paper and sew it up in calico, and afterwards try it on.
I have an inkling that the corset, might be to short, since I am longer in the body than the manequin.
And I am hoping, that the model (having my measurements) is also longer of body.

Draping that darn thing..12 pieces for one half of the corset. It seems as a nice idea, for the look that I want, with so many panels..Only done it once before, and it was an underbust, so this will be a nice challenge.

Draping that darn thing..12 pieces for one half of the corset.
It seems as a nice idea, for the look that I want, with so many panels..Only done it once before, and it was an underbust, so this will be a nice challenge.

Draping
Usually I work with flat patterning (is it called that in English?), using a lot of measurements and putting them down on paper and working out a pattern for the corset.
But this time I just couldn´t put my head around each single piece, I needed to see it in 3D and to see how all the lines and curves worked together.
I like it when lines in the patterns either accentuates or changes the proportions of the body. So I started by pinning down a ribbon for each pattern piece on my bra-padded mannequin (I did not have the tape thingy..:(..but lots and lots of this salmon coloured ribbon).

So, this is how each pattern piece will look like. There will be 11 on each side, 12 with the hip piece.
I am also thinking of not having any shoulder seam, but that the will depend on the of the fabric I will find.
If there is a pattern in the fabric, which is difficult to match up on both halves of the corset, I will have a seam at the shoulder. But I will burn that bridge when I get there.

Corset sketches

So I got to it and put some ideas on paper for the OCOC14 corset. I already knew more or less, where I wanted to go with my inspiration. I just needed to move around some details. The decoltage, cap or no cap sleeves, the hip part and so on.

The top most picture is the idea I ended up with and will follow more or less. You never know what will happen while you work..;). Sometimes it end up looking far from what you started up with.
The largest sketch in the second one, is the first sketch then the one to the right and so on down the page.

OCOC14 Corset

This is my inspiration for the OCOC corset. It will not be a historical corset, it will probably be a mix of several periods (not periods of corsetry but clothing).
I very much like the overall triangular shape of all of these, and would like to transfer it to the corset. I will probably make the corset some what medieval in the front (flat) and make it go up all the way to the neck.
I just love the doublet in the first photo, and would very much like to use the idea with the embelishment (ribbons) on it too. It will give the corset even more of a straight feel, I might even use the channels for boning, but not sure yet. I was also thinking of giving it a victorian feel to it or maybe japanese/chinese with the high neck (as the Balenciaga dress in the 4th photo).
And I want to embelish it from here to hell..:P. My colleague at work, is currently doing a warhammer inspired pirate/swashbuckler totally-over-the-top and I would like to use some of his embellishment ideas.
But I will start working on the shape and slowly take it form there. Usually, when I work on a corset from scratch, it changes as I work with it.

I will make some sketches of my ideas for you to see in the next few days.

OCOC14

I am so lucky to be a part of the Oxford Conference of Corsetry ´14 (OCOC14). So many wonderful poeple are coming along, and the program is just over the top, it is going to be a blast.

One of the things we are going to have, is a photoshoot with beautifull models and great fotografers. I have booked half an hour with the gourges Ella Rose, and will be making a corset for her, through out the summer.
You will be able to follow my progress here.

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Ongoing project

What is ongoing is the beading. I have about halv a kilo of crystals left to cover the front and hips. But damn it takes time..-.-

It is a deep plunge corset in 3 layers. Top layer is red lamb skin with a wrinkled effect. The middle layer is coutil and the inner layer is red polyester satin.

The corset does not fit the dressform, not able to lace it propperly at all, but it is the only dressform I have.

Mini Dotted Red

I had some leftover black w/red dots coutil from Vena Cava, so I decided to make this little one layer cincher.
I used the same pattern as for the Small Black Leather one, but took it further in at the waist. I wanted to see how tight I could cinch myself, without getting uncomfertable.
This little one takes 14 cm of my waist, which is a bit to much. I could probably wear it for an hour or so at the most (I am not a tightlacer and do not wear corsets on a daily basis).
I was very much familiar with the pattern and the corset was for me and I was lazy, so I decided not to make a mock-up. Well, I should have.
One learns from ones mistakes.
Apparantly I have made a big enough change at the waist, so the fabric did not lay as smoothly as it should have. I would have noticed it with a mock-up and changed the pattern accordingly.

Small Black Leather

I wanted to find out how to make a one layer corset out of leather with out it loosing its shape aka stretching.
I used cow-leather(skin) with a fantastic rubbery finish. Since this was a test, I wanted to use as little of the leather as possible, so I decide to make a cincher.
Usually if you do not want the leather or skin to stretch you iron on non stretchy interfacing on each piece, and to hide that, you use a lining.
But I wanted it to be a one layer corset with the suede side of the leather showing.
My solution is quite simple. I not only put a tape/ribbon at the waist, but also at the top and bottom of the corset, and kept it all in place by sewing boning channels on top of it all.
It was easy and quick to do. And it has kept its shape nicely.
It has a reduction of 8 cm in the waist.
(Sorry for the photo, my phone would not cooperate with me)

image

I wanted to make a single layer corset. Have never done one before. So this was kind of an experiment. I think it came out quite nicely.

Waist reduction: 8cm
Fabric: Vena Cava Design