Art of the Needle

Draping
Usually I work with flat patterning (is it called that in English?), using a lot of measurements and putting them down on paper and working out a pattern for the corset.
But this time I just couldn´t put my head around each single piece, I needed to see it in 3D and to see how all the lines and curves worked together.
I like it when lines in the patterns either accentuates or changes the proportions of the body. So I started by pinning down a ribbon for each pattern piece on my bra-padded mannequin (I did not have the tape thingy..:(..but lots and lots of this salmon coloured ribbon).

So, this is how each pattern piece will look like. There will be 11 on each side, 12 with the hip piece.
I am also thinking of not having any shoulder seam, but that the will depend on the of the fabric I will find.
If there is a pattern in the fabric, which is difficult to match up on both halves of the corset, I will have a seam at the shoulder. But I will burn that bridge when I get there.

Corset sketches

So I got to it and put some ideas on paper for the OCOC14 corset. I already knew more or less, where I wanted to go with my inspiration. I just needed to move around some details. The decoltage, cap or no cap sleeves, the hip part and so on.

The top most picture is the idea I ended up with and will follow more or less. You never know what will happen while you work..;). Sometimes it end up looking far from what you started up with.
The largest sketch in the second one, is the first sketch then the one to the right and so on down the page.

OCOC14 Corset

This is my inspiration for the OCOC corset. It will not be a historical corset, it will probably be a mix of several periods (not periods of corsetry but clothing).
I very much like the overall triangular shape of all of these, and would like to transfer it to the corset. I will probably make the corset some what medieval in the front (flat) and make it go up all the way to the neck.
I just love the doublet in the first photo, and would very much like to use the idea with the embelishment (ribbons) on it too. It will give the corset even more of a straight feel, I might even use the channels for boning, but not sure yet. I was also thinking of giving it a victorian feel to it or maybe japanese/chinese with the high neck (as the Balenciaga dress in the 4th photo).
And I want to embelish it from here to hell..:P. My colleague at work, is currently doing a warhammer inspired pirate/swashbuckler totally-over-the-top and I would like to use some of his embellishment ideas.
But I will start working on the shape and slowly take it form there. Usually, when I work on a corset from scratch, it changes as I work with it.

I will make some sketches of my ideas for you to see in the next few days.

OCOC14

I am so lucky to be a part of the Oxford Conference of Corsetry ´14 (OCOC14). So many wonderful poeple are coming along, and the program is just over the top, it is going to be a blast.

One of the things we are going to have, is a photoshoot with beautifull models and great fotografers. I have booked half an hour with the gourges Ella Rose, and will be making a corset for her, through out the summer.
You will be able to follow my progress here.

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Ongoing project

What is ongoing is the beading. I have about halv a kilo of crystals left to cover the front and hips. But damn it takes time..-.-

It is a deep plunge corset in 3 layers. Top layer is red lamb skin with a wrinkled effect. The middle layer is coutil and the inner layer is red polyester satin.

The corset does not fit the dressform, not able to lace it propperly at all, but it is the only dressform I have.

Mini Dotted Red

I had some leftover black w/red dots coutil from Vena Cava, so I decided to make this little one layer cincher.
I used the same pattern as for the Small Black Leather one, but took it further in at the waist. I wanted to see how tight I could cinch myself, without getting uncomfertable.
This little one takes 14 cm of my waist, which is a bit to much. I could probably wear it for an hour or so at the most (I am not a tightlacer and do not wear corsets on a daily basis).
I was very much familiar with the pattern and the corset was for me and I was lazy, so I decided not to make a mock-up. Well, I should have.
One learns from ones mistakes.
Apparantly I have made a big enough change at the waist, so the fabric did not lay as smoothly as it should have. I would have noticed it with a mock-up and changed the pattern accordingly.

Small Black Leather

I wanted to find out how to make a one layer corset out of leather with out it loosing its shape aka stretching.
I used cow-leather(skin) with a fantastic rubbery finish. Since this was a test, I wanted to use as little of the leather as possible, so I decide to make a cincher.
Usually if you do not want the leather or skin to stretch you iron on non stretchy interfacing on each piece, and to hide that, you use a lining.
But I wanted it to be a one layer corset with the suede side of the leather showing.
My solution is quite simple. I not only put a tape/ribbon at the waist, but also at the top and bottom of the corset, and kept it all in place by sewing boning channels on top of it all.
It was easy and quick to do. And it has kept its shape nicely.
It has a reduction of 8 cm in the waist.
(Sorry for the photo, my phone would not cooperate with me)

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I wanted to make a single layer corset. Have never done one before. So this was kind of an experiment. I think it came out quite nicely.

Waist reduction: 8cm
Fabric: Vena Cava Design

A month ago, I uploade a sketch of the costume I wanted to make for my first ConQuest of Mythodea.
Here is the end result:
- A grey inner skirt
- A yellow/greenish dress
- A red harness in goat skin
- A mini yellow/green vest (I call it, the fantasy bikini..;P..)
- A grey bolero jacket
- A red cape with feathers
- A red headdress

Here is an almost finished drawing of my Mythodea costume. I hope I will finish it all in time..o_O..:-)
I will be some sort of elven thing..;-)

Here is an almost finished drawing of my Mythodea costume. I hope I will finish it all in time..o_O..:-)
I will be some sort of elven thing..;-)

Mythodea

Allright then. I have some things I need to upload here, I just don´t have the time. The underbust corset, worn on an everyday basis, has moved to its owner, and I have some process photos from it.

But I´ve started a new job, as a costume designer..:D..Yeay me!!..And the whole company, Ironfortress, is going to Mythodea, so I have to make myself a costume!!..(Allready panicking)
I will combine it, with the red leather harness, I have planned to make.

(Second: I have just returned from Northside (a music festival in Aarhus, Denmark). It was GRAND!
- Kaizers Orchestra!!..(I just love those guys, great concert as always)
- Nice surprise: IMAGINE DRAGONS..OH wow..what a show!!
- Keane, Kashmir, Nephew (also WOW), Gogol Bordello (so much fun!) and so manny more great bands.)

But I have also returned, with an idea for my Mythodea costume and fabric for it. Just hope I have time enough.

This is my new project. I have been a little bit obsessed with harness’ these last few weeks, wanted to make one myself.
Then I thought why not combin harness and corset, so that is what I am doing.
The photo is a mockup, all the ribbon will be dark red leather. Almost everything in between will be skin (only the top part, under the breast will be a broad band of leather). There will be added rings and belts, to tie the arms down or being tied to..something..;-)

This is my new project. I have been a little bit obsessed with harness’ these last few weeks, wanted to make one myself.
Then I thought why not combin harness and corset, so that is what I am doing.
The photo is a mockup, all the ribbon will be dark red leather. Almost everything in between will be skin (only the top part, under the breast will be a broad band of leather). There will be added rings and belts, to tie the arms down or being tied to..something..;-)

thecorsetauthority:

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gettibucket:

My corset came. I’m generally happy with it, but the lack of boning in the front (due to the cameo, it also has no clasps or busk, so you have to put it on over your head and therefor unlace it to the most ridiculous degree) means the crow crinkles a bit. They’ve re-enforced it a bit but I guess if you pull in your wait it’s going to put stress on it. 

Gives me a nice shape though. Now I just need a black waspie and the collection will be complete. 

This is from Restyle 
Beware, most sizes of every corset are gone.

I’m getting this corset! Despite what’s already been mentioned, would you recommend it?

It’s great for fashion and not function. I have a friend who has one with a ribcage type pattern

Even though there is a cameo on top, they still could have boned it in front. I don´t understand why the haven´t done it.
A shame, ´cause the corset isn´t bad.

And here are fashion drawings of the whole collection.

The bottom 5 were all made real. The first black dress is almost backless, have worn it to many parties..;).
The jacket, I wear on a daily basis and the same with the pencil skirt..:)

Highwaisted “corseted” pvc and lambskin dress (the white is the lamb, and the black side piece up top), with a pvc cape.

This is a few things from a collection I made, for my exam several years ago, but just recently taken ok photos of it.